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Saturday, February 18, 2012

FASHION WEKK 2012: Duchess of Cambridge's beloved label Issa London unveils panoply of print in colourful catwalk show


There was an unmistakeable eastern feel at Daniella Helayel's Issa London show tonight.
Inspiration was drawn from as far and wide as Russia, Mongolia and China, with heavily printed fabrics, fur hats, and dresses over trousers marking this out as a collection that has traversed the globe, even before it goes on sale.
Gemma Arterton and Tinie Tempah sat front row as model after model took to the catwalk wearing colourful creations rich in texture, colour and pattern.
Prints took a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to Mongolia via Beijing
Prints took a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to Mongolia via Beijing
Wouldn't this scarf look super on the Queen?
Patterned: Prints took a Trans-Siberian journey from Moscow to Mongolia, with jumbo paisley and the onion domes of St Basil's cathedral making an appearance

A shimmering green sheath was printed with onion-domed buildings and graphic patterns
...those onion domes again, this time on a classic Issa wrap dress
From Russia with love: A shimmering green sheath was printed with Russia's archetypal onion-domed buildings and graphic patterns, while right, those onion domes again, this time on a classic Issa wrap dress

At the forefront of the collection was a panoply of prints, from those inspired by the ornate embellishment of Faberge eggs, the imagery of Moscow's St.Basil's cathedral and the paisley print of Russian dolls, to natural prints in blues and greens inspired by brightly coloured Mongolian flags, and Chinese dragons and lanterns intertwined with patterns from Ming vases.

 
Touches of the Mongolian nomads' traditional dress was found in cropped jackets embellished with rich wool threads and feathers.

Fabrics were luxe and elegant: velvet, woven gold silk coupe or lace in hues of bronze and gold; evening dresses of China red lace or inky blue silk satin.
Small talk: Tinie has been showing more interest in fashion and is hoping his own fashion label will be big one day
Riveted: Former Bond girl Gemma Arterton and Pass Out singer Tinie Tempah watched from the front row

Kate would wear this well: Full-length gowns with graphic prints, or right, in emerald green, would suit the duchess's slender physique
Kate would wear this well: Full-length gowns with graphic prints, or right, in emerald green, would suit the duchess's slender physique
Kate would wear this well: Full-length gowns with graphic prints, or right, in emerald green, would suit the duchess's slender physique

Delicate lace was embellished with a cascade of crystals
Delicate lace was embellished with a cascade of crystals
Printed tunics and skinny pants were topped with Russian fur hats at a jaunty angle
Printed tunics and skinny pants were topped with Russian fur hats at a jaunty angle
A jumbo paisley print on vivid vermilion fabric adds to the Eastern feel of the Issa collection
A jumbo paisley print on vivid vermilion fabric adds to the Eastern feel of the Issa collection
That classic wrap made an appearance here of course - it is the bread-and-butter of the brand., and Daniella never forgets her loyal devotees love the perennial favourites.
Here, it was given the AW12 treatment in myriad ways: worked in emerald green (we can certainly see the duchess in that one), or with those vibrant prints.

Of course, the Duchess of Cambridge has worn Issa on many occasions, not least for her engagement photograph.

In this collection, she will find a host of dresses that would suit her frame. Whether it be the full-length, long-sleeved emerald dress, the red lace or the printed version, she will surely invest in a piece or two.

More jumbo paisley, topped off with a Russian fur hat - as seen at Temperley earlier this evening
Flowing kimono styles were printed with bold graphic florals
Eastern promise: Paisley print originated in Persia and India centuries ago. Right, kimono dresses with bold graphic florals had an unmistakeable Eastern flavour
The collection, the second from Issa London since the label was heavily invested in by Camilla al Fayed, certainly proved its potential for a global market tonight.

Mohammed al Fayed's daughter bought a 51 per cent share in the company in July last year, with a view to creating a new website and opening the market up to a wider global audience.

Much of the collection will facilitate the opening of a dialogue with the diverse international market: headscarves, high necks and dresses worn over trousers were juxtaposed with gossamer-thin dresses lavish with cascading crystals.

It is a collection that sought inspiration from far flung corners of the globe - and it was all the richer for it.

High necklines and headscarves plus trousers under dresses - this collection will certainly appeal to a global market
High necklines, headscarves and trousers under dresses; barely-there lace dresses... this collection will certainly appeal to a global market
Global appeal: High necklines, headscarves and trousers under dresses; barely-there lace dresses... with Camilla al Fayed's funding, Issa plans to expand globally, and this collection certainly has mass appeal
Long was the order of the day at Issa this evening
Long was the order of the day at Issa - this midnight blue dress was stunning
The AW12 take on last season's mega successful lace collection brings us a floor-length column version in fiery red
The AW12 take on last season's successful lace collection is floor-length column in fiery red
Daniella Helayel never forgets that her customers adore her classic shapes
Daniella Helayel never forgets that her customers adore her classic shapes
Loyal fan: The Duchess of Cambridge, then Kate Middleton, posed for engagement photographs last year wearing a classic Issa wrap dress
Loyal fan: The Duchess of Cambridge, then Kate Middleton, posed for engagement photographs last year wearing a classic Issa wrap dress


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